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Vinho Verde – wines for all seasons | Covela Avesso Reserva 2022 | Quinta de Paços, Casa do Capitão Mor Sobre Lias Alvarinho 2020
Vinho Verde – wines for all seasons
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Lima & Smith, Covela Avesso Reserva 2022 Vinho Verde
100% Avesso from the Baião subregion. In 2011 Marcelo Lima, a Brazilian businessman, and Tony Smith, a former journalist and correspondent, came together to buy Quinta de Covela, once owned by filmmaker Manoel de Oliveira, but which had been abandoned for two years. Winemaker Rui Cunha continues with the project. Granitic soils, south-facing amphitheatre at low elevation. Spontaneously fermented in 300-litre used French oak
(54%) and Austrian oak barrels. Aged on the lees with occasional stirring until April 2023.TA 5.4 g/l. Certified organic viticulture.
Intense, pure citrus nose. Steely, bone dry, high acid, chalky texture. Dusty/mineral layer but with a creamy lees depth. Very tight, lean, direct, long. So pure in flavour yet has lovely dry, texture. A Chablis-like style of Vinho Verde. The suggested pairing was with grilled scallops and beurre blanc, but in the masterclass we tasted it with a mushroom and truffle broth and it was a surprisingly good match with the earthy flavours. GV (JH)
12.9%
Drink
2024
–
2029
€17 RRP in Portugal
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Quinta de Paços, Casa do Capitão Mor Sobre Lias
Alvarinho 2020 Vinho Verde, Monçao e Melgaço
100% Alvarinho from a single vineyard in Monção at 60 m, 1 km from the river, with pebble-strewn clay/alluvial and granitic soils. 10% of the grapes were fermented on skins (curtimenta), 50% aged in used French oak barriques for one year and underwent malo.
The balance fermented/aged in inox. Apparently the skin fermentation encourages spontaneous fermentation. Both components lees-aged for 31 months. TA 6 g/l.
Pale gold. Spicy, rich and golden. Firmly tannic, adding a bitter/grippy freshness. A skinfermented white that is sourly tannic and deliciously so but might be challenging if you don’t know what to expect. Colour looks more mature than the vintage. Spicy and complex. Concentrated and savoury/salty finish. Very salty, long finish – tasted even better when I tasted it about six months ago. The food match suggested was duck breast
with cherry sauce, with this wine a good option for anyone who does not like red wine.
GV (JH)
13%
Drink
2023
–
2030
£18.60 Columbier Wines
17
Top
Download >>>
Lima & Smith, Covela Avesso Reserva 2022 Vinho Verde
100% Avesso from the Baião subregion. In 2011 Marcelo Lima, a Brazilian businessman, and Tony Smith, a former journalist and correspondent, came together to buy Quinta de Covela, once owned by filmmaker Manoel de Oliveira, but which had been abandoned for two years. Winemaker Rui Cunha continues with the project. Granitic soils, south-facing amphitheatre at low elevation. Spontaneously fermented in 300-litre used French oak
(54%) and Austrian oak barrels. Aged on the lees with occasional stirring until April 2023.TA 5.4 g/l. Certified organic viticulture.
Intense, pure citrus nose. Steely, bone dry, high acid, chalky texture. Dusty/mineral layer but with a creamy lees depth. Very tight, lean, direct, long. So pure in flavour yet has lovely dry, texture. A Chablis-like style of Vinho Verde. The suggested pairing was with grilled scallops and beurre blanc, but in the masterclass we tasted it with a mushroom and truffle broth and it was a surprisingly good match with the earthy flavours. GV (JH)
12.9%
Drink
2024
–
2029
€17 RRP in Portugal
#######
Quinta de Paços, Casa do Capitão Mor Sobre Lias
Alvarinho 2020 Vinho Verde, Monçao e Melgaço
100% Alvarinho from a single vineyard in Monção at 60 m, 1 km from the river, with pebble-strewn clay/alluvial and granitic soils. 10% of the grapes were fermented on skins (curtimenta), 50% aged in used French oak barriques for one year and underwent malo.
The balance fermented/aged in inox. Apparently the skin fermentation encourages spontaneous fermentation. Both components lees-aged for 31 months. TA 6 g/l.
Pale gold. Spicy, rich and golden. Firmly tannic, adding a bitter/grippy freshness. A skinfermented white that is sourly tannic and deliciously so but might be challenging if you don’t know what to expect. Colour looks more mature than the vintage. Spicy and complex. Concentrated and savoury/salty finish. Very salty, long finish – tasted even better when I tasted it about six months ago. The food match suggested was duck breast
with cherry sauce, with this wine a good option for anyone who does not like red wine.
GV (JH)
13%
Drink
2023
–
2030
£18.60 Columbier Wines
17
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